12/25/01 - 1/20/02 Green Turtle Cay, Great Guana Cay and Marsh
HarborI can't believe it has been almost a month since our
last log update...time has flown!
We had a series of fronts sweep through in succession which kept
us pinned in Green Turtle Cay till January 9th. This was NOT
hard to take as Green Turtle is a wonderful little island.
Christmas on the boat with Noelle and Chris was wonderful as we
all shared our small gifts and company and had a wonderful
Christmas dinner buffet at the club which included turkey with
all the trimmings, roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, and great
desserts.
I signed up for the Scuba Certification at Brendal's Dive Center
and spent about a week studying and diving on the reefs on the
Atlantic side of Manjack Cay which is one Cay north of Green
Turtle (a couple of miles). On the Sunday after Christmas the
whole family went out with the dive group and snorkled on the
reef while I took my lessons. Brendal had caught a bunch of
lobsters and speared some fresh snapper which we then roasted on
the beach accompanied by Goombay smashes which Chris found much
to his liking!
The reefs lie about 1/2 mile offshore and are quite close
to the surface but drop a thousand feet or more on their
Atlantic side. They are quite awesome with all different types
and colors of coral formations including Elkhorn coral, purple
fans and huge brain coral heads. The fish range from brilliant
little "aquarium" fish to huge groupers, rays and
nurse sharks. Brendal has a "trained" grouper of about
50 pounds in one spot that you can feed and pet. The seas were
pretty choppy most of the week but below it was a
wonderland...what a great place to learn to dive. On my final
certification dive Noelle accompanied us since she is already
certified and had a great time. I'll look forward to diving with
my "buddy" in the future now that we are both
certified!
The rest of our time at Green Turtle was spent on
our rented bicycles exploring the many beaches and reefs and the
town of New Plymouth where we were able to shop for groceries
and keep up with our e-mail. We enjoyed the New Year's Junkanoo
parade there along with the native food stands and the colorful
atmosphere. The following day was our 30th anniversary...I can't
believe we've been happy together for so long...it seems just a
few years but no one could ask for a better true companion in
life!
We all celebrated at the Green Turtle Club and chef Mike put
together a home-made ice cream cake after the feast.....yummy!
We've also made quite a few friends among the cruisers here and
we enjoy each others company, and talk of boats and which place
to go next. The cruisers net of VHF 68 each morning keeps us in
touch with each other and with events throughout the Abacos.
On our last morning in Green Turtle, Chris and I
"discovered" a new reef and beach at the north end of
the island which was lovely and provided me with my first
opportunity to spear a lobster using my Hawaiian Sling (sort of
like a spear fired by a slingshot). That got us all excited and
I think Chris wished we had discovered this on the first day of
our arrival rather than the last!
We had to get over to Marsh
Harbor on the big island of Abaco in order for the kids to catch
their planes back to reality and finally got a weather break to
do that on the 8th. To get from Green Turtle to Marsh you have
to negotiate an ocean passage through the reefs called "the
Whale" so you have to wait for settled weather to do that.
Otherwise it a just a 3 hour sail with no hazards. We pulled
into Marsh without any problems and settled in for a few days at
the Conch Inn Marina. After seeing the kids off the next day (we
miss you already...but our food lasts a lot longer now!!),... we
spent a couple of days re-provisioning our boat from the two
good grocery stores, cleaning up the boat and scouting up other
essentials. Marsh Harbor is the largest town in the Abacos with
about 4000 residents and a well protected harbor. It is safe,
the people are friendly and you can find just about anything you
need at prices that are lower than the outlying cays....(but
nothing is cheap here except flour and butter!) . Nevertheless,
it is not a pretty place and we did not wish to linger.... so it
was on to Great Guana Cay.
An easy 12 mile sail brought us
into Orchid Bay... one of 3 anchorages here... where there is a
small settlement.
There are only 95 residents on the island...so just the basics
are available...but oh what a beautiful place! We anchored in
the protected cove for a week and enjoyed the company of four
other couples on boats...3 Canadian boats and one trawler from
Maine. It is amazing how many "Canucks" are here in
Abaco...probably a third of the boats we see are flying the
maple leaf and most are in boats of 30-35 feet...true
adventurers and down to earth folks who enjoy the simple things
in life and will go out of their way to help a neighbor.
We enjoyed beautiful calm weather for the entire week and had to
rely on our solar panels to charge the batteries as the wind
vane had nothing to work with. The seas were like glass and you
could clearly see the bottom 60 feet or so below the reefs as we
snorkeled together in search of lobsters. We all took our
dinghy's several miles around the southern end of Guana to get
to the ocean reefs. There we tied up together and dropped our
anchors in the sand in front of the reef. Can you imagine how it
feels to bob slowly on the ocean swells looking over a crystal
clear sea of a hundred hues of blue and green? To top it
off...the reef itself was so beautiful and pristine...and though
the lobsters were tough to find and get...we always managed to
take some home! What a life!!
We left Guana on Jan's birthday...the 20th... and vowed to
return again. We wanted to explore a bit more of the Abacos. We
headed south to Man O' War Cay to drop off a spear I had
borrowed from our friend Bob on his Bayfield 32 "Zepharia"
and then back to Marsh Harbor to do some provisioning, bill
paying and of course, birthday celebrating. We pulled into the
Conch Inn dock and Janet recognized the lady on the boat next to
us...as the cashier in the Richmond West Marine store! The boat
was Lilliana from Deltaville....1500 miles sailed only to end up
next to another Deltaville boat!
Our next surprise was Wayne (one of our Canadian friends from on
the boat "Brodicity"), coming along the dock with a
birthday card for Janet from all four boats we met in Guana.
She was touched by their thoughtfulness and it made her day
special. We had a great dinner at Mangoes where I tried Wahoo
for the first time...delicious...like swordfish but more tender.
Tomorrow we will take care of a bunch of errands and
provisioning and then it will be on to Hope Town and their
famous lighthouse for a couple of days.
We are sorry friends
Joanne and Luciano could not join us as planned and hope that
they may be able to do it later on. We're looking forward to
showing these beautiful places to other friends in the near
future!! Come on guys...make those reservations
now!! //GB