1/27/02 Hopetown and
Man-O-War Cay
Well- it's time for the sailing wife to
update the log. Let me start by saying that every morning I wake
up and say-somebody pinch me! It is so absolutely gorgeous here
-like a movie set. The water is incredible- more beautiful than
Hawaii or Puerto Rico or the Virgin Islands. The Abacos have the
world's 3rd largest barrier reef and the water colors change
constantly. Being here is another world and living aboard is
too. We are in the company of world travelers who all share the
same dream-sailing. Everyone is very humble- no talking about
what you did for a career or what you do or don't have-just not
important and it's so refreshing! The Abaconian people are very
friendly. We have had locals bring us fresh caught lobsters to
the boat-women come selling fresh baked bread in baskets or
offering to do your laundry. The food is VERY different- no big
grocery stores here-whatever arrives on the boat from Florida is
what there is and it is VERY expensive. Local bread is wonderful
and cheap-but a loaf of Wonder bread will cost you 4 dollars and
milk is 7-8 dollars a half gallon. Only butter -which comes from
Britain, (this is a British commonwealth) or Switzerland is
cheap. There are no t.v. stations-one radio station and a movie
theater somewhere! We snorkel and George spears lobsters-yum!
and look at unbelievable coral heads and tropical fish-we walk
everywhere or ride bikes-nothing is close by-George has lost 15
pounds from the exercise alone! Everywhere we go people
constantly say they can't believe how beautiful it is here and
how everyone should do this or see this. You need to be flexible
and have a sense of humor but most sailors have just that. When
the sun is setting each evening- people blow into conch shells
to "blow the sun down." All over in the distance you
here these shells being blown and it's like being back in time.
We have wine with other sailors or just enjoy the sunset
together. At night, I lie in our cabin looking up though the
hatch at the moon and gazillion stars and I think" somebody
pinch me!" //JB
We headed over to Hopetown which is a
sail of only about 6 miles from Marsh Harbor. The weather has
been perfect here for so long it is a joke! The entrance to
Marsh Harbor is a bit tricky and we had to wait till nearly high
tide to get in with our 5.5 ft draft....tides here are about 3
feet. It was well worth the wait as Hopetown is as pretty as a
picture postcard with a snug little harbor and a red & white
striped lighthouse, colorfully painted little houses and
beautiful flowers. We picked up a mooring (no anchoring in this
small harbor - the moorings are so tightly spaced that if you
have a 45+ ft. boat you can't take one as you'll bump into the
next boat! )
We ran into our friends Jeff and Diane on LadyDi (a Hunter 410)
on the beach. They are from Long Island and are moving to
Charlottesville VA but have taken a year off to go sailing
complete with 4 year old and one year old!
Jeff entered the cruisers race the next day and we climbed to
the top of the lighthouse and watched the whole thing and looked
out over the beautiful string of Abaco Islands and reefs for
nearly 2 hours. The lighthouse was built in 1870 and is powered
by kerosene fuel and MANUALLY operated still. I can't imagine
climbing those 101 steps several times a day! Seeing the fresnel
lenses and the pressure kerosene tanks and all the gears is
incredible. You have to get on your hands and knees to climb out
to the lighthouse catwalk but the view is wonderful once you do!
We stayed in Hopetown for 3 days
shopping and snokeling and beaching it and then headed back to
Marsh to pick up a part. Arriving there we found all three of
our friends boats from Canada and invited everyone over for a
"sundowner" - We started talking about places to go
and fishing and lobstering techniques and hot spots and the rum
punch was great...Well about 4 hours later we decided we'd
better have dinner! We swung gently at anchor in a light breeze
and another day came to a close.
The next day was perfect as well so we
decided to head over and explore Man-O-War Cay. MOW has two
harbors and we took a mooring in front of the small
settlement. (295 people live here). This was founded by British
loyalists and the population is largely white and speaks with
British accents and is quite religious (no liquor here). They've
survived by boat building, fishing and tourism. We enjoyed the
stay for a couple of days and then it was time to head on back
to Marsh to check on our e-mail and re-provision. More to
come...this is de life mon!