7/11/2001 Maine & Casco Bay
O.K. I`m still here.We have sailed so
much since our trip up the Intracoastal, that it's hard to keep
track of it all! I thought the ocean sail from Norfolk to
Greenport was awesome although poor Captain Geo. had a rough
stomach and crossing-never seen him green before-but it was an
actual bug and not seasickness. Greenport was a true shipping
center in the late 19th century with cobblestones and chandlery
stores to prove it. Preston`s is there on the wharf still
welcoming ships from the sea with it's 2 inch thick pine floors
and everything under the sun for sailors. Viewing Long Island
from the water was unique-after growing up there, I couldn't
believe I was looking at "my house". The lighthouses
and hilly coastline are gorgeous! Sailed to Port Jefferson which
originally was swamp land at low tide but became a great port in
the 1800`s.Many of the original captains` homes are still there
complete with widow's walks and cobblestone paths-but it was
very expensive and too too! The traffic and zillions of fru-fru
stores took away a lot of the charm that I remembered. Northport
was still charming with friendly people and a small-town feel. After
seeing my Auntie Anna and cousin Johnny and Arlene-which was
wonderful-and having Noelle and newly formed pirate, Johnny,
join us-we sailed to Center Island-a place that I literally
lived at all through high school. How great it was to sail and
achor there overnight, when all I use to say back then was that
someday I would be doind exactly what I`m doin now. How does
that song go?-"If they could see me now!" Heading north-to
Fischer Island and then to Newport where we saw my brother's
beautiful sailboat but sadly not him-maybe on the trip south.
Newport was a zoo-a total free for all when it came to sailors
and not the friendliest lot. The locals said that no one is very
friendly and that was the case. The town is lovely and of course
there are the mansions-but after just having been on the
"Gold Coast" as was called the north shore of Long
Island during the 1800-to early 1900'snd viewing F. Scott Fitzgerald's
mansion and many others like it-I preferred the ones closer to
home -call it local pride. Cumberland Island was not on my list
of places to go in terms of sailors. The sail itself was very
rough due to high winds and equally high seas-but when you are
on moorings 10 feet away from each other (pardon me- do you have
any grey poupon?) and no one says anything much less acknowledge
that your boat could literally hit them- you can keep it and the
attitude. Onto to Buzzards Bay, the Cape Cod canal -Marion and
Scituate- gorgeous and tons of sailing history. You are
literally anchoring on the wooden bones of these old schooners. There
were so many of them left after the early 20th century that
docks did not know what to do with them-so many were scuttled in
harbors-others brought to remote places to slowly rot away-like
on the North River on the Intracoastal where you can see the
frames of these old masted ships slowly fading into
history-quite a sight-our nation's history is waterbound. When
we finally arrived in Salem, I didn't know what to do
first-celebrate Halloween, (my favorite!), or check out the
history ASIDE from the witch trials which are tourist
death traps. Salem, was called Shalom and changed to Salem in
the 1600's. It became such a huge shipping port from 1787 to
1808 that foreign countries thought that Salem was a country as
well. Ships left for Asia and returned with pottery and silk and
new spices that thrilled the colonies. On display at the museums
are many of these treasures which captains loved to save and
show. I was in history overload and then I had to go to the
House of Seven Gables. I had taught Hawthorne at the high school
level and here I was standing in front of the Customs House
where all of the world sailing ships had to check in to pay duty
and where Hawthorne, a duty clerk , sat and wrote The Scarlet
Letter-even mentioning in the story how boring his job there
was. Walking through there and the historical cemetery and
streets loaded with homes dated 1640,1760 etc. was overwhelming
for me and I definitely was born in the wrong century. I know
I'd probably be dead at this age-but what a time to live in. The
Fourth of July was great with a fireworks show right above us as
we sat moored in the harbor. Our "famiglia" Joanne and
Luciano and children joined us for 2 days of fun but
HEAT!!!!!!!It was such a kick to be together in such a special
place! Onto Maine.......Now I am in scenery and memory and
lobster overload! You know you're in Maine when McDonald's has a
lobster roll on their menu!!!! I had a lobsta roll an' chowda
heya today! The rugged, rocky coastline is too beautiful to
describe-go look at a magazine! After spending all of my youth
summers with my family in Ellsworth-near Bangor- in a log cabin
on Graham Lake-fishing and fishing-the memories are as thick as lobster
traps here. It was tough the first day coming here and knowing
that my Dad and Mom should be here with us-bittersweet....We
have been told that the lobsters are molting right now-Geprge
says they knew I was coming-the terminator- and they planned to
molt now-that's o.k. fellas- I can wait! I have the whole summer
and the ones that have a hard shell -don't have a chance! I'm
reading a book on colonial life in America-written in
1898-describing life in these New England states, so it becomes
more vivid and personal-so much history- so little time to take
it in! More later-time for maple syrup and the next lobsta!//JB
After staying one night in beautiful
restored Portland, we sailed a few miles up Casco Bay to
Falmouth Foreside where we picked upn a mooring for a couple of
days and walked a lot of miles exploringn the coastline. From
there we sailed about 10 miles to Long Island (Maine)...a small
Island with a lobster pound, bicycles for rent and sandy beaches
but COOOOLD water. It was beautiful and the isolation of the
island keeps things low key. Our reservation to visit LL Bean in
Freeport didn't work out so we'll have to do that on the way
back home... I nnever thought I'd need reservations to visit but
Freeport is apparently a zoo this time of year.
We decided to hop further up the coast and went about 35 miles
"east" up the Sheepscot River to take a mooring in
Robin Hood Cove. This is where the RobinHood sailboats are
manufactured and the marina and setting about 10 miles south of
Bath are both lovely and we're going to stay here a few days.
The marina lets us use a courtesy car, has a wonderful library
building including PC hookup and in general try to do everything
possible to make your stay great. Highly recommended!! Dockage
prices in Maine are typically in the $1.50-2.00/ft range but
moorings are $15-25 per night and often include launch service
and all the marina amenities. The depths and tidal ranges in
many spots preclude anchoring but we plan to do more of that as
we get into more isolated and protected spots. From here we plan
to visit Wicasset, Boothbay Harbor and Christmas Cove in the
next week. Camaraderie is doing fine with both electrical and
fuel problems cured for the time being! The weather has been
lovely with temps in the low 80's to low 50's at night and just
one day of fog so far. More to come...//GB