April 15th 2003....Northbound on the ICW
We're presently in Savannah and just enjoyed a day in this
beautiful city...once again visiting our favorite pub for a
roast beef and Yorkshire pudding lunch with some draft Bass
Ale....mmmmm....good! We'll be on to Beaufort (Bew-fort!) SC
tomorrow and points north on the way to the Chesapeake over the
next 2-3 weeks but first I'll fill in the details of the past
month a bit.
Our stay in the Abacos continued with much swimming and
lobstering/snorkeling on the reefs. We visited a couple of
places we hadn't seen last year. Little Harbor at the
extreme southern end of the Abacos is a pretty little anchorage
with just a 3ft. depth at the entrance at low tide. By
sneaking across at high tide we were able to enjoy the
protection of the harbor and the sand floored "Pete's
Pub" for a burger. Looking up from my burger I saw a
T-Shirt from 2002 with friends autograph's from Chinook and
Odyssey and Valhalla. We missed having them with us this year!
Jan explored a cave on the island where an artist's family lived
for some months after a major hurricane and also saw the pouring
of molten bronze at the local studio...while the captain
contented himself with a novel! Marc and I were unsuccessful at
scaring up any lobsters here but he did find a big stone crab
which was a pretty rare find.
The other new place we visited was Treasure Cay which had
been dredged since last year and was now open to deep draft
vessels. The water and beach there were drop dead
gorgeous...truly the best beach in the entire Abacos in terms of
purity of sand and water color. Anchoring in the small basin by
the marina there cost us 8 bucks a day and included use of the
fresh water pool and showers and a short walk to grocery and
other stores so it is no wonder that this is becoming
quite a popular spot.
One thing we had a lot more of this year was weather of all
sorts as the weird winter we had experienced while in Florida
also affected the Bahamas. Fortunately, by the time we arrived,
the cold weather had disappeared, but we had a number of strong
fronts come through and lots of thunderstorms as well amidst
unusually warm and soggy weather. One night we had 60 mph winds
at Treasure Cay as a squall barreled through. Several boats
dragged a bit but all was well...10 miles away in Marsh Harbor
and beyond, boats dragged ashore, dinghies flipped
(complete with outboards!) and some boats played bumper cars
with others.
When friends Phil and Cheryl arrived from NY to spend a week
with us, we figured a week on board would finally drive them
away for good! The weather did it's best with steamy days and
lots of squalls...but after visiting Hopetown and Baker's Bay,
Man O' War and Treasure Cays they didn't want to leave. ...as
long as they could sleep in the air conditioned Hibiscus
Cafe! They enjoyed meeting Paul and Peggy and Mark and Nikki
even though no one liked THEM!! <grin>
After they left for the states we re-provisioned in
Marsh Harbor...said goodbye to the great folks at
HarbourView Marina and began to work our way north. Due to bad
weather, we had to lay over for a few days in Green Turtle so
Mark and I once again hit the reefs for the last
lobsters of the season. Dolcefina joined us when the
weather cleared and we all headed out to Great Sale Cay and then
West End in preparation for crossing back to the States. The
trip always seems longer on the way back...but it was easy and
nice to be able to get the sail out for much of the trip.
Since Mark & Nikki were crossing to Lake Worth, we
said our good-byes at West End and planned to cross to Ft.
Pierce with Dolcefina the next day. We really enjoyed getting to
know and hang out with the "Long Reachers" and know
that we will meet again and that hopefully Nikki's Boggle
skills will have improved somewhat!! (hee-hee! Eh! )
The Gulf Stream was like floating down a river at 10 knots as
we crossed over in just 9.5 hours for the 82 miles!! A Coast
Guard helicopter buzzed us about 50 miles out as evidence
of our hyped up war-time security! Our biggest thrill was
plowing through the mud entering the marina channel at extreme
low water in Ft. Pierce.
The next morning we said goodbye for a while to Peggy and Paul
as well. The good news is that after a visit home they will be
heading north and will be able to spend some time with us this
summer. Can't wait to see "Lucy" and
"BabyCakes" again!!
The next day we headed out to Vero Beach and were happy to
find friends Mike and Nancy (Zoellyn) were still there. They had
planned to be in the Abacos this year but Nancy fell and broke
her upper arm and they were unable to continue the journey. We
delived some lobster tails to them, (from Marc & Nikki
& us), did some provisioning with them and hit the Dunkin
Donuts shop as well as our favorite Mexican restaurant. It was
sure good to get some USA stores and food again!
The next day we made it to Titusville and then Daytona where
buddy Alge was able to stay with us for the evening and treated
us to pizza and other Italian delights that we had missed.
We talked for hours about kids and family and hopefully we
can get together in NC this summer for a bit too!
Our next stop was for 3 nights in St. Augustine where we
anchored out in blustery weather and dinghied in to shop and
enjoy this wonderful town again. Our favorite spot , the
"Havana Village Cafe", once again provided a
delightful and civilized evening of great Cuban food, live
Latin music & dancing and great, personal service as
we stayed up till almost 11:30 PM!! WOW...what night-owls we
have become!
We pushed on to Fernandina Beach the next day and then on
into Georgia and a 70 mile plus day which ended in a
beautiful Teakettle Creek anchorage with several other boats.
The next day, my fuel filter finally clogged again but we
dropped the hook and I swapped it out and we were back under way
in just a half hour. We are presently at the Palmer Johnson
marina in Thunderbolt (Savannah) GA and have about 3 weeks ahead
of us till we arrive back in the Chesapeake. The 9 foot tides
here remind me of Maine and I actually enjoy the tides and
currents as we navigate since it keeps the trip interesting. At
least if you run aground somewhere...you just have to wait a bit
before you are afloat again...just don't do it at
high tide!! So far, the ICW has been good with just a
couple of shoals encroaching on the channel that I had marked on
the way south (and sent in to Skipper Bob's for his next
edition!) . Haven't bumped yet.... On to BEW-Fort! //GB
UPDATE
4/22...
We enjoyed our Savannah visit and have scurried up the ICW from
BEW-Fort SC to BOW-Fort NC with intervening stops in Georgetown,
Myrtle Beach and Wrightsville Beach. While we enjoy these towns,
we are intent on getting north quickly and have not lingered to
enjoy them as we put in several 75 mile+ days. The good news is
that the boat has worked well and the ICW is in much better
shape depth wise than last year which is the result of dredging
in a few key spots and spring flooding which has raised the
river levels in North and South Carolina. I would hate to own a
boat with a 63 ft mast as since the water is higher...the
bridges are lower!! The flooding had one fellow boater joking
that he thought he'd tie up in someone's driveway for the night!
We are 250 miles from our Deltaville destination and should be
back within the week and are looking forward to seeing friends
and family again. ///GB