5/08/2004 In the Dominican Republic
We had to wait over
a week in Provo before the weather turned enough to allow us to
make the 170 mile run to Luperon in the Dominican Republic. At
the first break we made a dash out of the marina and then
encountered our roughest passage in several years. We had to
sale close hauled into the wind and the seas were big and on our
quarter making for a very uncomfortable ride and lots of
breaking seas over the deck. We found some new "leaks"
as the force of the water hitting the decks was like a pressure
spray. We had both bilge pumps (electric and manual) fail during
the trip so it was good to know Dolcefina was standing by
with a spare if we needed it. We finally made it to Luperon
harbor after about a 32 hour passage and were most happy to have
the anchor down.
We checked into customs and immigration and explored the town a
bit. Luperon is a real cruiser's hangout as there are many
semi-permanent boat based residents and prices here are very low
and you can live on the hook quite cheaply. Many of the local
cruisers are straight out of the 60's having left Woodstock
directly for the DR!
The town of Luperon itself is quite poor and people live in
squalor but it is quite safe and the people are most friendly.
There are several small stores where you can get provisions and
Jan is enjoying all the fresh vegetables she couldn't get in the
Bahamas but this is a lush and tropical island where you can
grow anything. What you can't get here is fresh meat or dairy
products so that requires a ride to Puerto Plata about 20 miles
away. The restaurants in town are dirt cheap but several serve
really good food so we've been eating out most of the time.
Jan's Spanish has come in handy as no English is spoken in many
places.
There are no marine facilities here either so if you need diesel
or water, Rafael comes out on his dinghy with big jugs (18
gallons each) that he pumps by hand into your tanks. Many of the
cruiser's in the harbor are supporting themselves by working on
transient boat problems as something always seems to need
fixing.
Unfortunately, Peggy and Paul have left us. Their generator went
on the fritz again and they were not enjoying the Thorny Path or
Luperon so they decided to have Captain Mike head back to Provo
where they caught a plane back to Florida. Mike will take
Dolcefina to Puerto Rico to be repaired and Paul and Peggy will
rejoin the boat somewhere when it is fun again. We will miss
their good company but this was the right decision for them and
we hope to all be together again in a few months time.
We need to get east to Puerto Rico and then south before
hurricane season but the weather has not been cooperating. After
arrival, we had 10 straight days of 20 knots or more directly
out of the east and big seas as well. I had to put Jan on a
plane from Puerto Plata so she could make it to son Chris's
college graduation today...WAY TO GO CHRIS! Of course, once I
put her on the plane a weather window appeared! It has been that
kind of season, but hopefully we can begin to make better
progress once Jan returns. If not, we hope to explore the
countryside a bit before moving on. There are a number of other
boats waiting as well, so we should have company along the way.
In the meantime...Adios...//GB