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Captains notes are in black... First Mate's are in rust!
| 8/28/04 Bequia, Carriacou and Grenada
With our need to quickly get south of the hurricane belt we
left St. Lucia in the early evening for the small island of
Bequia which is part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines.
Conditions were ideal for sailing and we had a favorable current
which pushed us past Martinique in the dark and brought us into
Bequia (pronounced Beck-we), where we grabbed a mooring ball and
checked into customs. The harbor in Bequia is large and
protected and a fuel barge is available for diesel and water
needs. The island is low and there is not much to see ashore but
there were several decent restaurants and I managed to catch the
Euro Cup finals while we lingered for a couple of days waiting
for good weather for our next leg. Bequia seems like a good
place to spend a day or two on a charter but it has little of
interest to attract the long term cruiser.
Our next stop about 40 miles away was Carriacou which is
actually a part of Grenada. We stopped here to check in with
customs in Hillsborough Bay which was wide open and quite rolly,
so Jan stayed aboard the boat while I went ashore. After the
trip to customs and immigration we picked up the anchor and went
around to Tyrell Bay where a bunch of cruising boats were
anchored. While protected, there was nothing ashore to hold us
and the restaurants and groceries were quite limited in number
and variety. We left the next day and headed the final 40 miles
or so to Grenada in beautiful light tradewinds.
Coming onto our waypoint for St. George's harbor, we saw a
beautiful multicolored town spread out on the hillside ahead of
us just as you see in a picture postcard. We hailed the Grenada
Yacht Club and took a slip for a few nights to explore the town.
Taking a slip involves simultaneously grabbing and slipping a
long line through a mooring ball while pulling up to a dock,
throwing lines to the dockmaster and then pulling on both ends
until the boat is positioned. Not an easy task for two people in
a center cockpit boat...but we won't go into any embarrassing
details! <grin> Nevertheless, no damage was done!
Up close, the town of St. George is not as pretty as from ashore
but you can get just about anything you need in town. This is
one of the oldest towns in the entire Caribbean and the streets
downtown are cobblestone with lots of old buildings to see.
Buses (about 50 cents a ride) can take you anywhere and
you never have to wait for more than a couple of minutes for one
of these to come along as competition for your business is
fierce. While they have set routes, a couple of bucks extra is
usually enough to insure a route deviation! Taxi's are also
available but at much higher rates. A couple of miles from town
is Grand Anse where lovely white sand beaches front the tourist
hotels and where much of the new development in Grenada has
taken place. Here we can find American style supermarkets, DVD
rentals, nice restaurants and even a Kentucky Fried Chicken
which is really great when you get tired of island food and
cooking aboard.
Most visiting boats end up in one of the south shore harbors as
they are large and protected places to hang out with other
cruisers. We ended up traveling the 10 miles or so to Martin's
Marina on Mt. Hartman Bay where we decided to take a slip for a
month so we would have access to air conditioning. We hadn't
really planned on this but the heat and humidity down here is so
incredible that you must take shelter. Martin's is a former
Moorings Charter base but it was sold a few years ago and is
showing signs of dis-repair. Nevertheless, the choices are
limited here so we decided to try it for a month. While we don't
regret the choice, we did find ourselves a bit isolated due to
the location.
Happily we made good friends with the Sid and Jen on their
Gulfstar 60 "Antares" and "Always Sunday"
also showed up followed by "Cialia" a couple of weeks
ago so we have a good core group of friends to pass the long
hurricane season with.
Around the end of July I noticed the bilge pump going on too
frequently and discovered that a weld on our seas water manifold
had cracked. When I went to close the sea-cock the handle broke
off so we had some water coming into the boat with no way to
shut it off. (Nothing serious...but it could be if left
unattended or if the bilge pump failed). We called over to Spice
Island Marine and they told us to head on over the next
morning. We were hauled out promptly and I asked Freddie the
yard manager if he could give us a bottom paint job quickly. He
said he could have us in the water in 3 days with both the leak
fixed and the bottom painted so we said to go ahead. We took a
small apartment there for the three days and it was a real joy
to have all the land based amenities for a while. Funny...in the
States...people leave apartments to go on boats for vacation. We
felt the same way going to an apartment!
Anyway, Freddie was true to his word and the work was done in a
high quality manner and right on time. Really surprising since
we had heard so much about "island time". We can
highly recommend the Spice Island Marina! Back at the Marina, in
early August we weathered tropical storm Earl which was the
first TS in 35 years here. Winds were only 45 knots but that was
plenty even with a couple of days to prepare. We couldn't
believe it when four boats came into the harbor and anchored
less than an hour before the storm hit....some people sure take
chances! With that behind us in just a few hours we hired a guy
to do our outside Teak in Cetol as the coats we put on last
August had burned up in the hot, Grenada sun. Ashleigh did a
great job for $12 an hour and Camaraderie is looking good again!
After our month was up at Martin's we moved back to the Grenada
Yacht Club (got the last available spot!) and have been
quite happy here closer to the action. Daughter Noelle,
boyfriend Johnny and my brother Gordon all came in for a visit.
Noelle and Johnny helped us move the boat from Martin's to GYC
and we had a nice sail in the process...Having extra hands on
board for the docking process sure helps too! We explored the
shops and hit the beaches and even went for a visit to the
medical school here where the tour included the cadaver
dissection class. Once Gordon arrived we took advantage of the
facilities of the very nice Grand Hotel here and also went on a
wonderful tour of the island in an open jeep. We all jumped in
to the Annadale waterfall and enjoyed the cool mountain water.
The rain forest was spectacular and we also saw the Grand Etang
lake which is actually the top of a volcano and went for a swim
in the sulfur springs. We also visited a plantation for lunch
and Jan collected a lifetime supply of nutmeg. (This is the
nutmeg capital of the world.) Jan fixed up a great roast beef
and Yorkshire pudding which was a big hit and we also had some
nice meals around town. On their last day here we took a
speedboat out for a snorkeling trip to an offshore reef. While
not anywhere close to the Bahama reefs in beauty we did manage
to see some nice stuff and a menacing looking large moray eel.
It was sad to see everyone go so soon but we hope to do it again
in the BVI's this Xmas season.
And so we settle in for the last couple of months of hurricane
season with hurricane Francis kicking things up several hundred
miles to our north. We have a list of boat chores to complete
and I'm sure the time will go quickly, but 4 months is a long
time to spend on any one island. We've decided not to go further
south to Trinidad since there is not much there to see...it is a
place to get work done or store a boat according to cruisers
we've met that have visited there. Also, crime is a concern
lately there. I should say that that is NOT a concern here in
Grenada and we feel quite safe getting around. We've really
enjoyed to very friendly and polite people here who genuinely
like Americans. Many feel we saved their country in 1983 with
the Reagan invasion to throw out the communist dictator. Between
the good cruiser community, first rate service, supplies and
provisioning and genuinely friendly, welcoming people, (and air
conditioning!).... Grenada is a great place to set the hook for
a while! //GB
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