All of our plans and hopes for the months ahead changed when we were caught in the wrath of hurricane Ivan on September 7th. Even now, 6 weeks later, we are struggling with his impact on our lives.

Our first notice of Ivan was through our weather service around Sept. 2nd. Ivan was predicted to develop into a strong hurricane and cross the northern windward islands around Barbados, several hundred miles to our north. Each day as Ivan approached, the predicted track dropped further south but no one was predicting a hit on Grenada proper which had not had a hurricane in 55 years. We went to bed on Monday night thinking Ivan would cross the southern tip of St. Vincent and at most we would get tropical storm force winds. Nevertheless, we secured for a hurricane at the dock (concrete with concrete and steel bollards), adding 1.5" dock lines, stripping all canvas and putting out our anchor in addition to securing to two mooring balls with multiple lines. 
When we woke up on Tuesday morning, it was apparent that Ivan had not turned north as predicted by all but was heading full tilt towards us as a strong category 3 storm. We only hoped we would be on the south side of the eye to minimize the winds, but as afternoon approached it became clear that we were in for the worst as Ivan would pass slightly to our south and all of southern Grenada would feel the full force of the storm. It was dead still for several hours before the storm and the sailors gathered in the yacht club building to watch and wait. As the wind began to pick up in mid afternoon we all moved over to the Tropicana hotel which was a large concrete building built into the side of a hill...a good move. Not everyone decided to hide out. Charlie and Dave on Adventure, (a steel schooner), decided to ride out the storm in the slip next to us. Others at anchor in the harbor made the same choice. 
After several hours of hurricane force winds, I was hoping we'd seen the worst of Ivan as we'd seen several boats go down or adrift in the harbor and it was stronger than anything I'd ever seen before. Then all hell broke loose and we were hit with winds that were four or five times as strong. The entire harbor became a wall of white water and wind with debris including entire roofs flying everywhere. We all huddled inside the hotel not daring to go near a window due to the debris. The sound was like a locomotive. This level of intensity lasted about an hour and darkness was approaching when we got a call on the portable VHF from Adventure telling us that they had broken free from the dock and been driven on to land across the harbor and that Camaraderie had done the same and was thought to be a loss. We consoled each other as the storm continued to rage and were like zombies as we contemplated the loss of our home and possessions. Thankfully, a later VHF call from Dave told us that Camaraderie was along side him in front of the Foodland grocery and had lost her mizzen and been scuffed up but otherwise looked OK. We left the Tropicana about 10PM and made our way through the total destruction harbor-side with our flashlight to find Camaraderie. 
We were prepared for the worst but after climbing over Adventure and on to Camaraderie we found no damage or water below decks which to us was unbelievable and a testament to how well she was built. We were sitting nearly upright with our bow on land and the stern in about 6 ft. of water but wedged in by several other boats including Adventure, a 47 foot upside down catamaran and a 51 ft. charter boat. We decided to sleep aboard and hoped the worst was over. 
As it turned out, the worst was yet to come as we were right in front of the main supermarket and warehouses and the looters arrived as Ivan left. There were thousands of them and amidst the utter devastation of Ivan, they made sure Grenada would not recover anytime soon. The looting went on for days and the local police also took part. There were gunshots within a few hundred feet of us and people with machetes climbing over boats to load up from the stores and warehouses. Some of the looting was well organized as we watched groups on small boats make dozens of trips to the "store" each day. Adding to the concern was the fact that the roof had blown off the prison and all the prisoners had escaped. There was simply no civil order or signs of relief support and I slept in our cockpit each night with mace, air-horn, spotlight and machete, prepared to repel boarders as the grounded boats kept up a watch all night. We were so happy when troops from Jamaica and Trinidad arrived and made a show of force with tear gas and mace and patrols. Nevertheless, we still felt very vulnerable on land as "rich" foreigners.
I've mentioned the devastation of Ivan, but it is truly hard to imagine what has become of Grenada. Ninety percent of the housing has been destroyed. The lush green hills are no more. The trees were uprooted and those left standing have been stripped of their leaves as if it was winter in Vermont. A Royal Navy ship crew standing offshore told us that they had measured a gust at 185mph and I believe it. The island agriculture and tourist hotels are gone. The marinas have all closed or been destroyed. The looters have devastated commercial businesses and distribution of international aid has been a joke. It will be many years before they can shake off Ivan. I no longer feel good about the people of Grenada. Of course, there are many fine people there, but there were just too many looters and too much wanton destruction and lack of civil control for me to ever feel the same as I formerly did. 

Back on Camaraderie, we were able to use our Globalstar phone to contact our insurance company who dispatched an adjuster as they had many boats in "hurricane safe" Grenada. There were probably close to a thousand boats in Grenada...many on land in storage...others like us. One major yard had just 8 boats out of 250 left standing after Ivan. Our own anchorage had just 6 of 40 boats left at anchor. Camaraderie had broken off her concrete pier with 6 other boats and we all arrived on the opposite shore in a jumble complete with our anchors and 2000lb. moorings...the forces were incredible. We lost our mizzen (and electronics) to flying debris before we left the dock according to Dave who lost his mast to the same. When we arrived on the other side,  Adventure pronged us with her bowsprit and T-boned our genny winch (a Lewmar 55) which busted both the winch and the bowsprit. Our stanchions and pulpits were all bent or broken and our beautiful toe rail and rub rail which we had just had sanded and varnished are all but destroyed. We have extensive but minor fiberglass damage all over the hull and some below the waterline but considering what she has been through, Camaraderie fared remarkably well. Friend Glen on Northern Rose helped me cut away the mizzen mast which was resting on my back stay and we became a sloop! He also kindly lent us his dinghy since ours was probably somewhere near Panama having snapped the bronze shackles on it's painter! 
After about a week, Russ, our insurance adjuster, showed up and took a bunch of pictures and went over the boat as thoroughly as he could. He agreed with us on the need to get Camaraderie back to the States for adequate repairs but the immediate problem was getting her ungrounded and getting us to a safer place. He and the insurance company (IMIS/Markel) would try to find us and several other boats a way home in the meantime. There were about 25 boats aground and awaiting a tug or crane to come to the lagoon to rescue us. Some non-professionals began to show up in the Lagoon and after watching their initial attempts with other boats, we decided to wait for the pros. As it turned out, the 51 ft. charter boat next to us got pulled off on day 12 which gave us a bit of room and a spring tide lifted Adventure a few inches off of us. This enabled us to get Camaraderie moving forward and back a few inches at a time and finally she broke loose herself and we were once again clear and afloat. What a great feeling! We celebrated our launching with friends Charlie and Dave and Karrie and Neal (they lost their 42 ft. charter catamaran 48Marbles when Ivan flipped it upside down!) and we felt safe for the first time in 2 weeks. 
All this time,  the weather was 90+ degrees with no rain and little wind. I jury rigged our bimini to provide a little shade but the heat and stress was just withering. Fresh food was gone and water was in short supply. Thanks to Trinidadian sailors a steady stream of water and canned goods began to arrive as NO international relief was reaching sailors here and the American Embassy provided no support other than telling us to leave Grenada. Yeah right... leave everything we own to the looters and void our insurance as a result of abandonment! We can never thank the Trinidad boaters enough, as they were our only life line with a special thanks to the crew of Zingano who were always there for us.  Thanks also to Charlie of Adventure who managed to whip up a surprise breakfast for us every morning earning her the title of "breakfast lady"... I couldn't imagine being pronged by two nicer people than Charlie and Dave!
Jan's brother Randy managed to find out that there was a ship leaving from Martinique at the end of November that could take Camaraderie  to Ft. Lauderdale. We cleared this with Markel (who has been most supportive of anything reasonable we wanted ton do) and began to make arrangements for booking passage. Now Martinique is 150 miles north of Grenada but it can be done in 30-50 mile day hops. Camaraderie was not sea ready but we felt that with some basic checkout and repairs we could make this trip. Russ arranged for us to be fixed up about 12 miles away in Grenada Marine and also arrange an escort boat for the 12 miles in case we ran into engine trouble. As it turned out, the trip over was uneventful but when I finally got to dive on the boat I found yellow polypropylene wrapped around the prop shaft and melted....we were lucky!  The people at Grenada Marine couldn't have been nicer. Despite the number of other boats they had to work on, they managed to fit us in and get the basics in place so we could head out to Martinique with some confidence that we were sound for the trip. Russ obviously had some pull here and also arranged for us to stay in a hillside hotel cottage for a few days while the boat was being worked on. They had their own generator and we had air conditioning and showers and TV for the first time in 3 weeks. Jan really needed a break by this point, (as did I), and I'm still amazed at how she kept us fed and the meals appetizing through the entire ordeal when I know she was scared out of her wits by everything that was happening around us. Thanks Russ! 
After a week in the harbor, we left the hotel to get back on Camaraderie. Ten minutes after being back aboard a squall hit and "Cammy" started dragging her anchor...something that almost never happens. If we had not been back aboard she would have ended up on the rocks. As it was, I managed to get the anchor up in the driving rain as Jan held the boat into the wind. The anchor came up with all sorts of hurricane debris attached. Apparently we had hooked on the debris for a week and it finally let loos during the storm and prevented us from getting re-set. We waited till it blew over and then let the chain out again and backed down on it hard! 
We got a new dinghy through the marina (Caribe 10 ft. Rib...similar to our old one) and got 3 five gallon jerry jugs which we used to ferry diesel fuel out to Camaraderie from the local gas station. After 4 daily runs we had enough fuel to make it to Martinique and with repairs completed we set out for Carriacou, a small Grenadian island about 50 miles north where we could check out of Grenada and get some provisions. The seas south of Grenada were rough and Jan thought we should turn back but we had a good forecast and I was determined to get out of Grenada. Once we turned the corner and headed up the west coast of Grenada, the seas flattened out and we made 6+ knots under motor and staysail (couldn't use the main or genny) all the way to Carriacou. We arrived on Sunday evening and set the hook and I went and checked out of Grenada first thing in the morning and we headed off to Bequia...free at last. 
We did the 30 or so miles in a few hours and took a mooring in Admiralty Bay where we were able to get fresh water for the tanks and "Junior" our boat "boy" kept Jan happy with a fresh lobster! We relaxed for a day in the harbor, did some provisioning and swimming and let others do the cooking  for a change and then decided to make an overnight run to Martinique since the forecast was so benign. We had a beautiful annd fast motor sail helped by favorable currents and arrived off the southern tip of Martinique at daybreak. We dropped the hook and went to sleep for a few hours then woke up mid-morning and checked into customs and our marina in Le Marin. 
We've been here 2 weeks now and are anxious to get Camaraderie on board a ship and get back to the States but it has really been nice here. This is a huge harbor and marina with over 600 boats in slips and every type of marine service. The little town has two decent grocery stores, an internet place and several nice restaurants. Everything is very French and we are the only Americans here as far as I can tell. Unlike France, the people are all very nice and accommodating and I've enjoyed putting my French classes to some use...thank you Mr. Hacke! The food  is simply wonderful and we are enjoying the bread and cheese and wonderful sauces. There's a little bistro nearby that sells cafe au lait and makes great ice cream sundaes and big breakfasts. The island is rich compared to the others we've been on with lots of cars and good roads and even shopping malls and hyper-markets that are like a super-Wal-Mart. The only downside is that it is quite expensive here with the Euro being so strong against the dollar....and of course it is still hot, hot, hot and humid. Still, things could be a lot worse! 
We have finalized all arrangements for shipping Camaraderie to Ft. Lauderdale. About 11/29 we will leave the dock and drive her on to a big ship which sinks in the water to allow this. Then the water is pumped out and all the boats are secured on deck with welded stands for the journey. In Ft. Lauderdale the process will be reversed. We will fly to Ft. Lauderdale to meet her and then will drive her to West Palm Beach where repairs will be made at the Rybovich Spencer yard. We're looking forward to getting back to the USA and to seeing friends and family again. While we regret not seeing some of the Caribbean spots we had planned on, we are really tired of the heat and the lack of things we take for granted at home...like milk! Once Cammy is back as good as new, I think we'll stay closer to home for a while and maybe head to some cooler northern weather. At least we'll get out of hurricane country! <grin> ///GB