We left Hilton Head for the relatively short run to Thunderbolt (about 5 miles down river from Savannah), on a very blustery and cold morning with the wind out of the north at about 20 knots and small craft warnings up. The weatherman said there were 12 foot seas off shore so we were glad to be on the ICW. Unfortunately...a lot of boats decided to stay put in their marinas and there was no room for us at any of the half dozen marinas we called so we decided to anchor out in the hope of something freeing up the next day so we could visit Savannah. The creek we anchored in (Herb Creek) provided good holding and several other boats joined us. Despite the wind and strong current we were snug and as the wind died late in the day we were treated to another great sunset in a beautiful setting. We made plans to head south and skip Savannah but fortunately the Palmer Johnson marina had a spot free up at 8 the next morning and we grabbed it and headed into Savannah on the city bus line just outside the marina.

We spent the day walking around the historic district of Savannah and the river walk there. The river walk is about 1/2 mile of shops and restaurants set along the river which you can reach by taking long, steep steps down about 100 feet below the level of the city itself. We enjoyed seeing the very old buildings and the original cobblestone and stone streets and also enjoyed the lush small park squares set every few blocks and filled with moss hung live oaks. After so much fish lately, Jan & I reveled in some good British pub food at "Churchills" for lunch. I had roast beef and Yorkshire pudding while Jan had "bangers and mash" (thinking of you Mr. Barton!) and we left stuffed intending to have a very light dinner later that night on the boat. We did a bit of provisioning and headed back to the marina on the bus after a full day and intending to get some laundry done, catch up on the e-mail and have an early night. In the marina lounge area however we ran into some fellow cruisers who invited us to join them for dinner at "Tubby's" down the street since "everybody was going". As it turned out, over 20 people showed up and just about everyone was headed to Florida or the Bahamas and all kinds of cruising experience was represented. We had a great time talking to everyone and sharing experiences and plans and getting to know the people on some of the boats we had been seeing on earlier parts of our travels.

I should say that the Palmer Johnson marina in Thunderbolt is my favorite marina so far...a great facility, very helpful staff, clean showers, easy access to Savannah, a lounge w/ e-mail & book exchange and Crispy Creme donuts and coffee delivered to your boat in the AM for free.

We got started today (Wednesday 11/7), at 7:30 AM since we were planning a 60 mile day to get us about 2/3 of the way down to St. Simons Island. Many of our new friends from last night left about 1/2 hour earlier than us but our trusty (lately!), Yanmar 44HP engine enabled us to catch up and pass all but one of them by the time we made it into our present anchorage in New Teakettle Creek.

So here we lie at anchor with about 5 other boats and there is no moon tonight and the wind is dead calm... I have never seen so many stars and we can occasionally hear the sound of nearby porpoises breathing in the creek. After a day in the city...this is exactly the opposite experience!

We woke at 7:30AM only to find that all the other boats around us had already left...early birds! With only about 30 miles to go to St. Simons island we were in no rush and got underway about 8AM on this chilly morning but a cup of hot Starbucks helped take the chill off. This section of the waterway was the most challenging we'd faced so far as we followed a series of twisting, turning, narrow creeks with heavy current. I had to pay very close attention to the chart as many sections had shoaled up and we passed one smaller sailboat hard aground right in the marked channel. The 7 foot tide would float him off eventually but we didn't want to end up in the same position. Numerous range markers helped us line up the proper courses along the way. Further on there was a dredge that we prepared to pass to port when he signaled with his whistle and directed us to go around him outside of the channel at the last moment...tense! Anyway we made it without bumping once and arrived a little after noon at the Golden Isles Marina at the southern tip of St. Simon's Island. We made a fuel and pump out stop before tying up at our reserved slip (reservations are a must at this time of year). This is another fine, modern marina and we grabbed their courtesy car for an hour to do some food shopping at the local Winn Dixie. Afterwards we took a cab into the hamlet of St. Simon's and wandered around the main street and over to the spectacular lighthouse. ( Pictures soon!). We grabbed a bite to eat and headed back to Camaraderie. We had allowed an extra day here to explore on our schedule, but while nice, there's not much more to see so we've decided to take advantage of the good weather forecast and head out to the ocean tomorrow to sail around Cumberland Island and into the St. Mary's river which forms the border between Georgia and Florida. It is about a 45 mile trek and should be easily done. This will be our first departure from the ICW and our first opportunity to put the sails up since Norfolk so we are quite excited! Weather is predicted to be in the 70's with northeast winds of 10 mph so it should be an ideal day to head south. We don't want to miss the wildlife of Cumberland island so we'll turn north when we come in the St. Mary's inlet and anchor behind Cumberland tomorrow evening. The next time we post to the site we'll be in Florida...unbelievable!!//GB

On to Savannah-Georgia was the last of the original 13 colonies and named after King George the II. We walked through beautiful parks and down to the waterfront and River Street. Those of you who know me well-know what a bakery fanatic I am. I was on a quest for the ultimate pecan pie! My dear friend Diane , who has the singing voice of an angel and makes a serious pecan pie, knows that I would try any and all in the land of pecans. Went to the River Bakery, which I have seen on the Travel Channel, and their pie was to die for! Savannah itself was not Charleston by an y means and didn't have enough history on what you are looking at-lots of buildings but were they stables or warehouses or what? One afternoon was enough for me and then on to St. Simons island.

What a pretty little town- and I do mean little. About a dozen small stores and that's it-but what a view of the ocean and Jekyll Island across the way. The lighthouse here is out of a movie. It was built in 1861 and the confederate soldiers were ordered to destroy it so the union soldiers wouldn't have a navigation light when they took Atlanta-it was later rebuilt and you can still climb to the top! Mr. D'Aria - this one is for you! The small museum in the lightkeepers quarters showed what a hard life it was and how desolate. Tomorrow out into the Atlantic!//JB